Sicily: Not your Godfather's Palermo

J looking out from our balcony

Before we got to Sicily, we heard a lot about driving there. To be careful, that drivers were a bit crazy... but for most of our trip, the driving was pretty sane and the roads mostly country.

Until we got to Palermo.

Palermo is what folks are talking about when they mention the insanity of driving.

We were headed from Cefalu to the Kalsa neighborhood of Palermo. It was a bit harrowing, to say the least. As is often the case when you go to a new big city, we didn't know the rules of the road that locals follow, so we basically just followed what the cars in front of us were doing.

Our AirB&B was a nice one -- a big one bedroom with a lovely balcony that with a view of the nearby church. The weather was nice, so once we arrived and parked, we relaxed. There is always a point on a long trip where I need a day to not be a tourist, not do anything...this was that day. We hung out and watched movies, drank some wine, and eventually got ourselves together to get out of the house.

The first thing you must eat while in Palermo is arancini. These things are huge, and delicious. They are usually filled -- with meats, cheeses, and sometimes both -- and a wonderful snack while walking around. And, in my opinion at least, walking is the best way to see Palermo. This is a big city, and as such, you should take the same precautions you would take in any big city. My understanding is that there has been a concerted effort to rid the city of the mafia, and other than the Godfather souveniers, I didn't see any overt evidence of it. So there is nothing to fear there. But while there, like in other cities, be smart.

Quattro Canti

We walked towards the Quattro Canti, an important corner with beautiful artwork on each side of the street. This was the first but not the last time we visited this area -- you can spend quite a bit of time wandering the streets, following a parade, and checking out the various churches and monuments...you can also pop into a bar when you need a drink or to hear some locals shout about their families.

Eventually we made our way towards the Teatro Massimo, which takes you through the main pedestrian area. These streets are lined with shops, people, and food vendors.

Stop by il Siciliano to have a few drinks. Arrive early enough that to get some seats...then sit and watch the local nightlife unfold around you. The drinks came with some appetizers -- enough to hold us over for quite some time.  Eventually stumble out and over to get some proper Sicilian food -- it'll be filling and delicious and just what you need before you go pass out!

We spent our last night in this neighborhood, surprised how busy the restaurants were on a Sunday night. We found ourselves at Ciccio Passami l'Olio. The bar here was particularly great -- and had several local, Sicilian beers; I'd highly recommend.

Palermo is ideal for wandering around, eating until you burst, and drinking granitas. I also loved that I didn't feel like I was running into too many other tourists, especially in the neighborhood where we were staying (that was what you would describe as "up and coming").



il Siciliano
Via Orologio, 37

Ciccio Passami l'Olio
via 90133, Via Castrofilippo, 4

Sicily: Seaside in Cefalu

Cefalu by Night

After a harrowing journey to get there, Cefalu was a very welcome sight!

It is a small resort town about thirty minutes from Palermo. Quite a bit of the town is off limits to cars -- though the rules are rather ignored, including by us! It was a bit easy to get lost, and ignore the signs, and no one seemed to care much...but be warned.

Cefalu was a darling beach town, and a nice change from the inland mountainous area where we'd spent the first few days. We parked the car, checked into the hotel, and meandered around town to grab a drink and decompress from the drive. We found ourselves in this lovely little town square at the base of a church, and since it was a Friday, there was a wedding going on. There was also a very happy happy hour, where we enjoyed prosecco and spritzes for a while, and maybe a bite or two.

There is a hike you can do that will take you above the town -- we chose not to do that. We chose instead to have a bit of vino on the roof of our hotel and watch the sunset, then to grab some food. Cefalu is small enough that you can walk from end to end during an evening passeggiata. 

The next morning we decided to take our time getting into Palermo, and to enjoy the Tyrrhenian Sea. There is a public beach, but your best bet is to spend a few Euro and rent a beach chair. We chose to stay right in the middle of Cefalu -- there are beaches a little further out, as well. We bought a towel in one of the shops (which came in handy later!), and rented chairs. Ours were probably about 10E a piece for a few hours of lounging. They have umbrellas should the sun get too intense, and most have a bar and some food, and will come to your chair and take/bring your order.

This was a fun, relaxing part of the trip -- it was interesting to watch all the beach goers from around the world. Like many places, there were "vendors" trying to sell their junk as we tried to relax; most of the time they were asked to leave by the beach chair company.

I'd highly recommend a day and night in Cefalu during your Sicily trip. Sicily is an overwhelming place -- the craziness of rural driving and the wildness of the cities really earn you a day or two of relaxation.

Sicily: Navigating the Island

Driving around Sicily is not for the faint of heart...especially when you do not have the option of the autostrade.

The day after our great wine adventure, we decided that we would head to Cefalu, a resort town outside of Palermo. It would be fun, we thought, to cut through the middle of the island. The truth is...there is no easy way to get to Cefalu/Palermo from the Etna region. To take the autostrade would require going back towards Taormina, then skirting the edge of the island -- quite a bit out of the way.

See those little squiggles? Those are all twists and turns. This may not be our exact route...I think we went further west

Off we set on what we thought would just be a few hour drive. We expected to see a few small towns, find a nice restaurant and have a good meal, and soon enough be relaxing in Cefalu.

These asses were blocking our way

What we did not expect was hairpin turns, a harrowing, suck-in-your-stomach trip down a very narrow street on a very high hill, and a bunch of asses in the middle of the road. There were also some crazy drivers that rode our tails for a good part of the way. We found out that what you hear about the drivers in Sicily was true -- they are kind of crazy drivers!

We also ran into quite a bit of construction. They are working on some roads to better connect where
we were to the main autostrade. I am sure everyone who lives in those areas will very much welcome these new roads!

Once we got to the autostrade, we flew to Cefalu (look at that, it rhymes!). The autostrade allows you to go very fast. It is a toll road, so there is a cost, but if you don't want to pay there are other options through the parallel roads. Both J & I were amazed by all these infrastructure projects -- the tunnels were new and efficient, and rather empty.

After our rather insane drive, we were very, very happy when we saw the exit for Cefalu!

Sicily: Wine Sippin' Around Etna

One of the main purposes of our trip was to discover the world of Sicilian wine -- specifically around the Etna area. The morning after we arrived, we were excited to get going on our adventures...but Mother Nature had other plans.


The rain we had encountered upon our arrival had not left us yet -- we had a slight reprieve on our first evening, but it came back with a roar our first morning. Luckily the scenery was worth staring at for a while.

After the torrential downpour in Taormina that confined us to our hotel, it was time to head out to the Sicilian countryside to sip some vino and watch the volcano. After a harrowing journey back down Taormina's windy roads, we were soon en route!

Unlike most places in the wine country here in northern California, most of the wineries in Sicily require reservations. Unfortunately, thanks to the storms, we were running terribly behind. We decided to swing by one place, any way, in hopes that they still might entertain our visit.

Outside of our room -- vines creeping over the wall

Tenuta delle Terre Nere produces one of the wines J really likes, and just happened to be pretty much across the street from our agriturismo (which actually sat amidst their vineyards, which was gorgeous!). We hunted around the grounds a bit, then finally a very surprised winemaker popped out -- he wasn't still expecting us. But, we got lucky, and had one of the best wine tours we could imagine. He gave us a tour of their vineyards, which included going off roading into the hills to see some of the unique, volcano-side terrain. Once we got back, we got to taste their wines, and walked off with several bottles as well as some olive oil.

On our second day, we awoke with a mission...get to Mount Etna, and drink more wine! While it was a beautiful day at the base of the mountain, as we got higher up, it got decidedly chillier. We climbed up as far as we could by car, to an area that in the winter serves as a ski resort. That particular day it was too foggy to go any further, so we climbed around a bit on the volcanic rock, then figured we'd had enough of that type of nature.

Food and wine pairing -- YUM!

Soon enough we were experiencing another type of nature, the red, white, and juicy kind. We arrived Gambino Winery, where we'd had reservations the day before but had missed due to the rain. They were pretty forgiving about it -- they told us that there had been flooding in the area and they couldn't blame us for not wanting to drive up there.

This was quite a different experience than the day before -- this tasting room is much more of a destination and polished. The view was amazing -- Gambino is set on the side of the hill, so you can gaze at the valley below while sipping on their wines. It had a good deal of charm, largely thanks to everyone who worked there. We did the food and wine pairing, thankfully because we were pretty hungry! This is a big place, and we were invited to take a tour of their grounds and production facility. The winery was rather crowded, as was the tour; people from all over the world, it seemed!

Mountain View from Patria

Once we were done there, we were left with the tough decision of where to go next?! With no reservations anywhere, we decided to take our chances and stop by places that we might encounter on our way back to the agriturismo. We soon found ourselves at Patria, where they were surprised when we knocked on the door of the office and asked if we could taste. They were very accommodating, even though they weren't expecting us. As we wandered over to the tasting room, we were greeted by the winery dog, an older lady who made sure to guard the door as we drank. At Patria they had bubbles, which of course I loved! They offered us probably six more varieties, as our pourer talked about her love of California. We were lucky to be the only ones there tasting; we got lots of personal attention and learned quite a bit about their wines.

Sandro & J

We weren't quite ready to head back to our agriturismo, but we were ready to eat something. As we Cave Ox, which would end up being one of my favorite experiences! The kitchen sadly wasn't open yet, but our new friend Sandro kept us plied with wine as we waited. He brought J into the wine cave, and talked us through his inventory. We got to taste more local wine, and we sat there for a few hours enjoying the company, and eventually the pizza. As we carefully made our way back to our place, we were grateful that Cave Ox was just two turns down the road.
were driving back, we arrived to

Our trunk was full of a few newly-acquired bottles -- I'd say it was a very successful day!


Tenuta delle Terre Nere
Contrada Calderara
95036 Randazzo CT

Gambino Winery
Contrada Petto Dragone
95015 Linguaglossa CT

Patria
s.s.120, Km 194.500 |Solicchiata
95012 -Castiglione di Sicilia (CT)

Cave Ox
Via Nazionale Solicchiata, 159
95012 Solicchiata (CT)

Sicily: Taormina Vistas

To say J & I are ambitious travelers is an understatement. Our time off together is precious and we like to fit as much in as possible (and yes, we do relax, too...kind of!). Our honeymoon was no exception. Over the span of three weeks -- a work trip was tacked on at the very end -- we hit twelve airports.

Enjoying Maine!

We started on a Thursday, heading down to Los Angeles to attend the wedding of our friends. We left
that wedding, and LA, on Friday evening to head to Maine (via Boston) to attend the wedding of another of our friends on a small island off the coast. Two days later, it was time to head and start our time overseas.

Getting there was not without incident. The day we were set to leave was the day the Lufthansa pilots went on strike. What airline were we on? Lufthansa! It was a very trying several hours -- but with the help of an awesome United rep in Boston Logan, Aaron, our adventures were only delayed by a few hours.

• Protip #1: When you book on a codeshare flight, call your originating carrier. Their lines are going to be much shorter and they'll have more time to dedicate to you. (We eventually walked over to United's customer service)
• Protip #2: If there are two of you, split the efforts...get in line, make calls, tweet. We did this until we got an answer. 
• Protip #3: Try not to get stuck in Boston Logan. It has a terrible international terminal.

But soon enough, we did arrive. We had chosen to fly into Catania, the airport on the eastern coast, and spend the evening in Taormina, a beautiful hill town that overlooks the coast as well as Mt. Etna, even booking an awesome hotel. Our delay meant that we didn't get to spend much time enjoying the amenities of the hotel, and also meant that we arrived in the middle of some torrential rains!

Getting to Taormina is not for the feint of heart, even when the weather is dry. It requires a slow trek up a very steep mountainside road. With the rain, there were a few washouts, so the going was even slower. I had a data plan on my phone (this has become a must -- one of us gets the data plan, usually me since I'm the navigator, and we turn it on in moments like these when we aren't 100% sure where we are going). 

If you find yourself staying at the Hotel Monte Tauro, be prepared to wind around this little town, then, when you think you can go no more, look to your right. You'll see a sign and a very steep driveway. This is your spot. Be careful! We had a wonderful room at this wonderful hotel, overlooking the pool. It was closed due to the storm, but it offered a view of the ocean and lower-lying towns.

View from our room

Taormina captures the romantic idealism of Italy. As you walk around the small town, you will not find many cars, allowing you to move freely to the shops, caffes, and restaurants. Wander around and you will find all sorts of restaurants, places to stop for a espresso or Etna Rosso, and plenty of gelato!

Though we were tired, we stopped for dinner -- sharing a bottle of local wine and indulging on panelle (Sicilian fried chickpeas). The restauranteur had a love for California, so we talked for him with quite some time about that! We then meandered through town, which was simply magical in the post-rain evening. Not ready to go home yet, we stopped at the Caffe Wunderbar to sit and enjoy the music and people watching. 

It was in Taormina where we noticed all the pine cones -- La Pigna. These ceramics come in all sorts of sizes and colors, and we saw them everywhere we went in Sicily! 

The other image you will not escape in Sicily is that of "The Godfather." I had heard most Sicilians try to distance themselves, you will see Godfather paraphernalia everywhere you go. There is always a t-shirt snuck in there, or a small wallet, or something. This has some significance -- many of the "Corleone" scenes were shot in/around Taormina.  

I wish I had one full day to enjoy Taormina -- if you find yourself there, it is small enough to see a lot in that amount of time. If you have time to enjoy a second day, you will truly enjoy la dolce vita!

My Seven Super Shots

My friend Francesca over at The Working Mom's Travels "tagged" me to participate in this fun challenge:  Hostelbooker's Seven Super Shots. As someone who loves talking travel, and showing off photos, I am excited to take part! Thanks, Freesia!

So, here we go.

A photo that...

1. Takes my breath away

In the Fall of 2009, I had the opportunity to visit Yosemite. I think I had been once, very briefly, for a day in college, so it felt like I was seeing it with fresh eyes. And, with every turn, I was astonished by the beauty that surrounded me. I could not believe such a place could truly exist, and even more amazing to me, that it so close to the bustling City where I spend most of my time. 

2. Makes me laugh or smile

After a long day's hike on the Cinque Terre Blue Trail, our feet were hurting and we were hungry! We had arrived back in Monterosso, taken a nap and gotten ready to go eat! But before we could go down to the restaurant, we took a little stop to dip our toes in the Med. My mom seems to so be enjoying herself here -- her first time touching the clear blue waters there! 

3. Makes me dream

When I returned to Buenos Aires after a brief visit to Mendoza (and before I realized I lost my passport), I took a rainy-day visit to La Recoleta Cemetery. This may be a strange place for dreaming -- after all, it is celebrating those that no longer have the capacity to dream -- but this particular picture has a sense of hope, of purpose. The angel in the forefront is pointing to the sky, as if telling us to believe, and the opening in the clouds in the distance, through the rain clouds, seems like the light emerging through the tough times. 

4. Makes me think

My first visit to Barcelona was in 1998, on my way back to Paris after living in Sevilla. The contrast between the two cities was amazing. I was especially struck by Gaudi, and how he influenced so much of what I was seeing in Barcelona. And nothing caused me more pause than the Sagrada Familia, the huge, unfinished cathedral. That someone dreamt up this place, and made other people believe in it so much they continue to work on it through to this day! I have visited it on two subsequent visits, and love to sit and reflect on life, dedication, and what it means to have such passion. Will I ever feel that passionate about something? 

5. Makes my mouth water

A perfect cappuccino, served to me in Vatican City prior to the tour of the necropolis and grotto. I fell in love with these cups of goodness on my trip in 2011, and while I try, nothing I have had back here in the States can even compare. Is the milk different? The espresso? Or is it just the special pleasure of partaking in such a delicate drink while in midst of a different culture, language, and routine? I'll never know.

6. Tells a story

I love the juxtaposition of these two people sitting beneath the mural of two others. The past and the present coming together in the same moment...this was mid-morning on a weekday in Cartagena, Colombia, and already oppressively hot. These two seem to be taking a break, although I do wonder what they do, since Cartagena seemed like a place where unemployment may be high. They seem deep in conversation, but there's also a chance they are just acquaintances from the neighborhood that happened upon a break at the same time. I was far enough away that they didn't see me take the photo, but they seemed so intense that I couldn't resist taking a shot.

7. I am most proud (i.e. my National Geographic shot)

Taken near Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica, these little buggers were all over the place at the Bali House where we stayed. But while they were a constant, it was near impossible to get a good picture. They would poke their heads out and then quickly hide if they sensed any movement -- like a whack-a-mole! One day, I headed towards the beach, framed my shot, then patiently waited...and waited...finally, this little one popped its head out politely allowed me to snap a picture. It was a matter of seconds, but I just love this one.

I don't have any other bloggers to tag at the moment; stay tuned and I will add a few when I can!

Best Things: Food & Wine Academy of Florence

I was so excited when my mom and brother agreed to do a cooking class with me in Florence. I've been to Florence a few times, and always found myself drawn to the Tuscan cuisine (perhaps because there doesn't seem to be a lot of fish?), so thought it would be the perfect place to learn a thing or two. Plus, my friends A & M had taken a class there and raved about it, so, off we went!

We decided on a class at the Food & Wine Academy of Florence, and booked through the Viator website.  You can also book through other sites, but I always like Viator to keep all my tours together in one easy place (and, you can often find coupons, which is always a bonus!).

Biscottis at the Central Market

The class started bright and early with a group meet up in front of the Florencetown offices. We met our chef for the day -- Giovanni -- and his sous chef, who promptly took us over to the Mercado San Lorenzo to buy the supplies for the day. We first stopped off at the Conti shop to taste some olive oil and balsamic vinegar...and grab some goods! (I personally got La Salamoia, a Tuscan grey salt mixture; I now sprinkle it on everything!)  We continued our tour to pick up tomatoes, eggs, fresh cheese, eggplant, bread, and freshly ground meat straight -- all necessities for our upcoming meal. I was already getting excited!

After the market, we were taken to a back alley and a closed stall of some sort...which we soon discovered was actually an old restaurant and our home base for the day. Once inside, Giovanni laid out the menu for the day -- Bruschetta, Eggplant Caprese, fresh pasta with meat sauce, veggie pasta, and tiramisu to top it off. And, as we all spied, sitting upon the counter, WINE!

Our class had about 12 people from all over the world -- the USA, Canada, Britain, Georgia (the country) were all represented -- and everyone got to take a part in the prepping of food. I personally sliced some tomatoes and possibly whipped some eggs, though I am not 100% positive on that one!

We started by making our tiramisu, as it took the longest and also needed to sit for a while to really build the flavor. Once that was done, it was time to start on the pasta itself. My brother did a fine job mixing up the flour and eggs to create a great doughy base. As that was setting for about 10 minutes, we started working on other parts of our meal. This was one thing I really liked -- often when you are in the kitchen, you are called on to multi-task so the food is all ready around the same time; in this class, we learned how to effectively manage all the dishes at once.

Soon it was time to finish off the pasta and sauce, all which took about 10-15 minutes total. This was a totally simple meal, and we were all jonesing to eat it right away! Luckily, they held us over a bit with some vino. Eventually the meal was all done and we were ready to chow down!

Of course, our group ended up being the last ones standing. We helped Giovanni polish off the wine (can't leave a wounded soldier on our watch) and got some details on where to eat that night! While I have seen some reviews complain about the lack of hands on activity, but I thought our class size was perfect, and we all got to contribute (if we wanted). And, most importantly, everything we cooked could be made easily at home. Cooking in Tuscany is one thing I would highly, highly recommend.

Best Things: Blue Trail, Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre of Italy's Ligurian coast must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. These small, peaceful towns offer great views, kind people, delicious food, and lots of tourists! And, as an aside, I am in no way anti-tourist, hell, I usually am one, but these are small towns and the many tourists are the main drawback. I heard a lot of Italian being spoken as well, so it is perhaps a favorite regional destination, as well. If you go at an off time -- September was my favorite -- and perhaps during the week, the crowds will be smaller.

I have now been there twice, staying in Monterosso al Mare, and had the pleasure of wandering the towns both times. There are many trails around the CT, and many smaller towns that may not be as crowded as the main five, but I think you would be remiss to go to the area and not spend one day on the Blue Trail.

Most books I've seen have you starting at the most southern town of Riomaggiore and hiking north. I am not quite sure why, but I haven't seen many (if any at all) that have you start in Monterosso. I guess this would ease you into the hike, as that direction starts out rather flat, and that may be a plus for some people. I have started both times in Monterosso, which I think is the better way (there may be bias).

One thing to know is that you must have a pass to hike the trail. It is a protected park, and the locals are doing their best to sustain it. There are several passes and several ways to get them -- at the train stations, at the entry gates in each town, and I believe at the tourist offices of the neighboring towns like La Spezia. Both times I have gone, I have purchased the one-day, trail + train pass at the Monterosso train station (need to go upstairs to the special office). In April 2011, this card cost 10E, and could only be paid for in cash. This pass allowed us to get on trains or hike for the entire day, which was ideal. They told me I needed to validate it at the train station, so I obliged!

A few pointers...wear comfortable clothes, and LAYERS! Have a bottle of water in your day pack, and a few snacks. Eat a good breakfast before you head on the trail, and leave early. Oh, yes, and make sure to bring sunscreen and reapply during the day.

We started early, hitting the starting gate at the top of Monterosso by 9am. It was already heating up! The gate guards checked our passes to make sure they were valid, so be sure to not lose them and keep them handy. It should be noted...in my opinion, this stretch between Monterosso & Vernazza is the most challenging part of the trail. I am in good shape, and it was still a good workout for me. You go through quite a steep altitude change, so make sure to take your time as you hike up. I've seen very old people on this trail, so I know it can be done, but slowly. This trail can get very narrow, and there are often hikers on there with huge hiking poles that will not cede the right of way. Be prepared.

Arriving to Vernazza from this direction affords a stunning view of the little cove town. Once you enter the town, you continue to follow the trail right down to the water. This is a great time for a gelato and to dip your feet in the Med. The path is pretty clearly marked, and takes you back up through the town, past the train station, to the trail towards Corniglia. (this second time, we took the train from here on out... it started training and we'd heard this trail was closed; turns out it was the Corniglia to Manarola part.)

Corniglia is the only town not accessible by water. It sits perched on the hill, and even if you take the train, you may have a bit of a hike ahead of you...there are 382 steps from the train station to the town. There is a bus that will take you up there, included in your pass. We didn't realize that until it was too late! Since this town is all on a hill, you'll get a bit of a workout just walking around. It is worth it to walk all the way to the top and look out at the vista; it's pretty amazing.

Soon, you'll want to head to Manarola, another very picturesque town (and I think my mom's fave). If you head to the bottom, harbor area, you may find sunbathers lounging along the rock walls. It's another opportunity to dip your toes in the Med, or simply look straight down into the clear water and check out the fishies.

After Manarola comes the easiest part of the trail -- Via dell' Amore. This is a flat, 20-minute walk is a celebration of love, and decorated with lovers locks. Local lore tells us lovers go and hitch their lock to parts of the trail, then throw the key into ocean, sealing their fate as a couple forever. I find this so endearing...but it doesn't explain some of the combination locks we found. I wonder if there is a huge pile of keys right along the coast?


Both times I've visited Riomaggiore, it has been at the end of a long day, so I am not sure it gets the fairest shake from me. I am sure it is a lovely little town. For me, it has always been a welcome site that my day's journey is almost done.

Doing the walk + train took us about 4 hours. Doing hiking only, one way, is about 5-6 hours depending on your pace.

Best Things: Monterosso al Mare

The Old Town of Monterosso

The Cinque Terre (Five Lands) of Northern Italy are truly spectacular. Each of the towns -- Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarolo, and Riomaggiore -- are places I feel so lucky to have ever seen. I've now been there twice, and could probably go again if I went with someone who likes hiking (more on that in another post).

Vernazza gets mentioned quite often as the most picturesque, and recommended to all as THE place to stay. And, I will admit, the first time I went to this area, I tried to book a place there. Those that I wanted had no vacancy, so I ended up in Monterosso al Mare. Now, looking back, I am so glad I did!

This guy was just hanging out

Monterosso is the northernmost of the towns; it is also the only town of the five with a "sandy" beach, and also quite a few hotel options. We stayed at the Albergo Pasquale, an ideal hotel right on the crux of the old and new towns. I cannot imagine a better location. And, if I may for a moment...we were so lucky with this hotel. Our room for the three of us was huge -- it had a king bed (which we probably could have split if we thought about it -- and a little side room with a twin bed and its own TV. And, while all the rooms have ocean views (the hotel is kind of built into the side of a hill), we scored one of the rooms with a balcony. It was awesome. They also provided one of the best breakfasts we had on all of our trip. It included a full spread of bread, cheeses, salami, cereals, whole fruit, fruit salad...AND, eggs to order. Plus, they had possibly the best cappuccino I ever had. The cappuccinos in Italy are something else, really. Perhaps because they use real, whole milk instead of the non-fat I would usually get here, or perhaps because they are made with a little something extra. I dunno...the one here was awesome.

Monterosso is a great start to the Blue Trail...I will say it is quite a challenging hike from here to Vernazza, it is absolutely lovely. Most maps seem to have you starting at Riomaggiore...which I guess makes sense if you want to end in a larger town with more dining and drinking options. But, if you are staying in Monterosso, you can just hop on the train back and eat and drink to your heart's content.

Of all the towns, Monterosso has the most options to keep busy, especially in the evening. There are many restaurants and little bars in the older part of town, and due to the resorts, there is a lot going on in the evening on the newer side, as well. It has a very relaxed vibe, and I think even if it were very crowded, there is enough space in the city where visitors won't be on top of each other...the other towns are much smaller and I can see the crowds being off-putting. Also, if you want to try some delicious focaccia and pesto al gnocchi...this is your place (the best pesto I've ever had, I think, was at Ciak...my steak was also delicious. The others with whom I was dining were more indifferent about their meals there).

Sunset View of the "new" side of town

Monterosso is very accessible. Most of the trains going north and south seem to stop here (both the locals and the regionals). It's especially helpful when you are exhausted after a day of hiking and just want to get home! From Milan, we took a train directly here; this option is also available from Pisa. I wouldn't recommend driving to the Cinque Terre in general -- the roads seem rather treacherous -- but taking the train is simple and extremely scenic (especially if you get to go through Genoa).

Best Things: Vatican Necropolis

Tony & Mom entering The Vatican

The Vatican is one of my favorite places. It is the main reason I am willing to return to Rome again and again...the artistry and history in this particular little city/country blows my mind, in large part because much of it is Renaissance, which is my favorite.

I had only vaguely heard of the Necropolis and Grottos of St. Peter's Basilica. I had never given it much thought until my mom put it on her "must do" list. Located beneath the Basilica, it follows history through the very early days of Catholicism in Rome, through to the modern day practices. It is quite a history lesson and quite an experience.

Tony & Mom pretending to ask directions

First off...you MUST reserve in advance. The Uffizi Scavi's (Excavation Office) website has all the detailed information. Follow it. It is very important! You will set your time, date, number of people, language, and all that good stuff. The office is quite responsive (which surprised me). They will get back to you with your appointment date and time, and how to pay. It is all very organized and easy. At the time we went, it was 12E/person.

When your big day finally arrives, you'll go all the way to the left side of Piazza San Pietro (towards the Petriano Entrance). About 15 minutes before your appointment time, the nice Swiss Guard in the fancy uniforms will allow you to head on back. They'll check your confirmation, so make sure to have it handy. I actually really like this part; it is a part of the city that not everyone gets to see, and allows you to experience the working part of the Vatican, versus just the tourist part.  The guards inside are helpful and will guide you the correct way should you appear to be veering off the path.

Once at the Uffizi Scavi, one person in your party should go and check in. This is where I realized they are serious about dress code...I had a tank top on because it was warm outside, but had my sweater with me to cover my shoulders. The moment I walked in, the guy behind the counter scolded me. I quickly told him I had my sweater, and he pretty much made me put it on before I walked back out. So...they are SERIOUS about the shoulders covered/knees covered rule!

How Much is that Basilica in the Window?

Other rules they're serious about? No babies (one couple left their little one with the father's brother, who appeared to be a priest), no big bags (you need to check those by the Petriano entrance area), and no cameras. At first I was bummed about this, but it's rather dark down there, so photos wouldn't be so great, anyway.

They keep groups to about 12, and do their best to accommodate your language. Our guide was a local university student (seemingly matriculated, because I am pretty sure she was my age or older) who was a native English speaker (from New Jersey or something) and also spoke Arabic (I think...one of the Middle Eastern languages and that sounds the most correct). At any rate, they'll do their best to speak in your language.

We were lucky to have a terrific guide, though I would be surprised if there were any bad ones in the bunch. She was very educated about church history, which was awesome for a nerd like me... some people in our group liked it for the religious reasons; I enjoyed it, more objectively, for the historic perspective. The Catholic Church has a very rich history; while many movie makers and authors have used it as a basis for fascinating works, the truth needs very little embellishment!

You get to walk through various chapels and crypts, some rather recent. The grand finale in the necropolis is a look at the bones of St. Peter himself. They are encased in a special, NASA-created box, and hardly visible, but they are the basis for much of the religion and importance of the Vatican, something I didn't really know.

Once the tour is done, the guide leaves you in the Grotto, where there are many tombs of old popes. We got to see where PJII was originally buried; he has since moved up to the Basilica (in a chapel right near Michaelangelo's Pieta).

Very glad we were able to do this! Feels like a secret club I'm now in.

Best Things: Rome's Villa Borghese

Lady in the Fountain

Rome is a huge city...as I mentioned in my post about the Vespa tour, there is so much to see when visiting, that time you go, you can find something new and unexpected.

For me, it is also a very overwhelming place. I've now spent quite a bit of time there, and it's no secret that it's not my favorite place in the world. But, the city and I did get along well this time.

One important reason for that? I was able to get away from the crowds and find some moments of peace. Our trip happened to coincide with the beatification of Pope John Paul II, which meant many, many pilgrims heading into town to celebrate him. It also meant throngs of people in almost every nook and cranny...not my favorite thing.

On the day of the actual beatification ceremony, my brother and mom went over to the Vatican and ancient Rome, and I decided to wander. I am so glad I did! I headed to the Spanish Steps, then decided to continue walking up the street and see where that led me.

Bike/walking Path

And there, right in the middle of the touristy center of Rome, was the Villa Borghese. I had heard about these for a while, and my goal HAD been to go to the Borghese Gallery, but that was abandoned once I entered the park (oh, and forgot to get a reservation and all that jazz).

The Borghese Gardens sit atop a hill in Rome, extending from right nearby the Spanish Steps all the way down to the Piazza Popolo. I am not sure how deep it goes, but it looks to be a mile or two. I kind of pooped out after a bit, so couldn't explore it all. BUT, what I did get to see was pretty amazing.

If you just continue down the entry path, you'll hit the  Plaza Napoleone. From there, you will see a gorgeous cityscape view of Rome, including the side of the Vatican. It is fun to try to orient yourself to where you exactly are! While I was there, helicopters were flying all over the Vatican and more central city area...though it felt like they were miles and miles away, that's how peaceful the park was. This particular plaza is rather popular -- when I arrived there was a gaggle of teenagers there on some sort of school trip, all in matching clothing and special little hats, and being followed by a very harried-looking group of adult chaperones -- but still there was a sense of quiet.

I continued my walk throughout the park, and discovered a carousel, bike rentals, signs for a casino, and much more. Locals were there, on their runs, trying to dodge the tourists (made me miss my running shoes!). There is also this very cool water clock...I thought I had taken a picture but apparently I didn't! There are also a ton of trees...which makes me think that on a hot day, this would be a nice respite from the heat of Rome.

Overall, it is a great place to get away from the crowds and noise. I imagine it would get crowded up there, but the sheer size would allow you to find a peaceful spot. And, overall, I think there is something about parks that mellows people out. If you're traveling with kids, this is a great place to let them run loose for a bit, and entertain them with the bikes, little amusement park, and a zoo. Or, if you'd like, perhaps grab a sandwich and some vino and have yourself a little picnic.

View of Piazza Popolo from Villa Borghese

Best Things: Rome Vespa Tour

One of the most fun things we did while in Rome was a Vespa tour with Bici & Baci. There is a lot to see in Rome, A LOT, and much of it is hard to access via just walking or the metro...and, a lot is off the "beaten" path. And, having been there a few times, I personally wanted to see something other than the Colosseum and Roman Forum and Vatican.

But, I'll be honest...I was a little nervous about getting on a scooter, or, frankly, anything with wheels in Rome. The traffic there is crazy. The drivers there are crazy. To even walk there, you have to be a little bit crazy. So...to me, getting on a Vespa, well, THAT was crazy.

If you can get over the fear, though, this tour is awesome. We decided on "Secret Rome," one of 10 tour choices. Looking now at the itinerary, it looks like there is some plan, but it felt like we were going to some of their favorite spots, which was really fun. We focused a lot on places beyond the Circus Maximus, so it was rather old, but so cool. I wish I could tell you where we were, but I really don't remember names. I could show you most of it on a map, though. Needless to say, it was awesome.

Also cool? Squeezing through little alleys, breezing past innocent bystanders. And being able to say we touched down on each of Rome's 7 hills (plus a few others!) during our trip. And the views! A few of the parks we sped through offered stunning views of Rome...plus one special peek through the keyhole at the Malta Embassy was nothing short of spectacular.

Needless to say, I wouldn't have seen any of this by foot or metro. The Vespa tour was truly special in that way. It was pricey, to be sure, but since it was the one thing my mom really wanted to do, we went for it. And, it was really well worth it!

Italy...the Food

Enjoy!

Last view of Venice

A Venezia

Venice...one crazy place. Arriving on a Saturday meant being thrown directly into the cruise traveler masses...it was insanely busy here. I hadn't been to Venice in about 13 years, and while I don't think much has changed, it was like seeing it again through all new eyes. 

I do know last I was here, it was not this crowded. I know this has a lot to do with the time of year (I was here in November), the cruise day, and, oh yeah, the Pope, who decided his fist visit to Venice (the first by a pope since 1985) should coincide with high season and our vacation! This put a little cramp on things,but we managed!

Upon arrival we jumped right into a vaporetto (water bus) to take us to our hotel. The 1 Lido arrived to Ca' d' Oro, about a 5 minute walk to our hotel. A pretty majestic way to arrive!  It took us a few minutes to finally find our actual hotel- Hotel Georgione - and once we did, we dumped our stuff and thought it would be a good idea to head to San Marco, since we weren't sure of the Pope's schedule.

I describe easily how crowded it was...akin to Disneyland on a summer weekend. We jostled our way through the little streets, and eventually arrived to piazza San Marco.  This is quite an awesome sight...a huge, old basilica sitting right on the water's edge, offering views to four or five other beautiful churches. Amazing. San Marco was all set up for the arrival of Papa Benedetto, with security and barricades all over. The Basilica was also closed -- a real bummer as I don't think I went into it last time, either.

We continued our wandering, and headed to the other side of Venice, near the Accademia. We passed another big church set up for the arrival of the pope, and continued down to the end of the land, ending up at this weird statue -- a young boy, naked, holding a frog...and a security guard or two not allowing anyone near it.  So weird.

All this wandering made us pretty tired, so it was back to the hotel for a nap, followed by dinner, more walking, and bed!

Sunday was decidedly less crowded in Venice... We originally wanted to take a grand canal tour, but things were closed thanks to the pope. Instead we hopped back on the vaporetto 1 Lido, and took it to the end of the line, all the way to Lido. I am sure there is still to see there --  think some sandy beaches -- but we noticed that the grand canal was closing for the Papa, and we wanted to get back before that happened. Mom wanted to take a water taxi back, and of course we did! 

For 50E, we got our own little tour. The taxi took us out and around the city, where we could see San Michelle (I think it's a cemetery) and Murano. Must say, it was a pretty awesome way to travel! The rest of the day was spent shopping, walking, and having a spritz or two (spritz is a popular drink here...refreshing to me but bitter in taste, so not for everyone). 

Our last evening was at a little restaurant owned by GiGi (Luigi), right near our hotel. The gnocchi was one of the best I've had here...clearly very fresh and yummy! We watched the sunset from the Rialto, then headed back with one last gelato.

Tony left very early this morning, and now mom & I are packed up and heading to the airport, too. We get to go by water taxi... So cool! It has been a really fantastic trip... I'm a little sad to go home, but my body is looking forward to walking with a light purse (the big @ss camera gets heavy!), running a bit, and not eating food drenched with delicious olive oil! (my palate, however, is very much going to miss it)

Cookin' in Firenze

It's been a very busy few days here in Florence!

On Thursday we did a cooking class, which ended up being super fun. To quote my mon,"it almost made me want to cook." For those who know her, you know those are big words! We made a few things, but the big ones were tiramisu and our own pasta & meat sauce. I've learned that fresh pasta makes a huge difference in the taste of a meal! They also gave us wine throughout the cooking class, which we probably didn't need but happily enjoyed. At the end of the class, the chef recommended a place for dinner located in a more "local" part of town, so eventually, when we regained our appetite, we went there.

W also walked around quite a bit after class...and boy, where the streets crowded! Lots of big groups of teens on field trips. Florence isn't a huge city like Rome, so these groups were taking up quite a bit of space! Thankfully, they left and seemed to have taken with them a lot of day trippers, too.

Thursday we decided to get out of dodge and head to Greve in Chianti. I'd never been, and love chianti wine, so was really excited to go visit where it's made! The bus ride there was uneventful, and after about 50 minutes, we arrived to this darling hill town. Walked around for a bit, ate, and eventually found the wine tasting center. This was a cool place - we got to taste quite a few wines, but the was no one telling us anything about them or really enhancing the experience. I hope someday to do real wine tasting here at some smaller production places and not just these touristy things. But, it worked for us ... W had been told we needed to be back to Florence by 5pm as there was going to be a bus strike. So, no problem, we'll get on the 4pm bus.

We apparently weren't the only ones with this plan, and it turned out to be a very eventful bus trip! There were several large groups on the bus, including some bicyclists, a Swedish tourism class, and a mother with three kids, one who was screaming the whole time. I was rather crowded so not everyone could sit. Immediately, one of the Swedish students started crying. Then, apparently the bus driver was going too fast, and this Italian woman was screaming at him while holding this screaming baby. Then, one of the Swedish girls stands up, comes over to her friends, and collapses. Bus is stopped, she is taken off for air, and the Italian woman yells some more. More swedes crying because they thought their friend was dead (turns out, from the moment they got on they were scared they were going to die because they had to stand and the driver was going fast...I love that the dramatic thoughts of a teenager are universal). Eventually, we move again, then the bicyclists decide they need to get off the bus ...at the wrong stop. Finally, the woman with the screaming baby gets off, only to get a stern talking to by the bus driver. Well after 5pm we arrive back at the bus station...I'm wondering if the driver was in a hurry to go on strike!

The food here in florence has been great, and last night sealed the deal. We ended up at a place right by our hotel, always questionable when in such a touristy spot, but wow, was the food amazing. Plus, we talked to our server, Nico, for quite some time, and he loved us, so gave us free limoncello. And not just a shot each...but he left the entire bottle for us to finish. It was half full when he left it! We happily obliged and drank it all.

Today starts the last leg of this journey, to Venice. Apparently the pope will be there, too; hopefully the huge crowds won't follow.

Bella Firenze

Disappointing tour led to drinking prosecco led to dinner and a few bottles of wine led to after-dinner drink led to this morning...ouch!

Off to cooking class today!

Ciao Roma

We had one last day in Rome, and we went nonstop. It started with a bus ride to Saint Peter's Square...bus was packed, similar to what I take to work and about as smelly (though less homeless smell and more stinky tourist). We grabbed a bite and a cappuccino (which...I'm in love. Tempted to get my own machine) and headed to Vatican City.

Though I've now been lucky enough to see it several times, the sight of the Basilica never ceases to amaze me. It's stunning and overwhelming. Our first tour brought us into the necropolis, and we were lucky enough to have a good guide who knew quite a bit of church history. The age of everything we looked at was difficult to comprehend...as an American, and Californian to boot, our history is so recent; it's hard to fathom that "modern" here often refers to something 500+ years old.

We learned quite a bit about St. Peter, which I had either never heard in 12 years of catholic schooling, or just didn't remember. We got to check out his bones (~2000 years old) and his tomb, which now sits in the Grotto of the Basilica. After about 1.5 hours if dead things, it was time to head back to the land of the living. And to pizza!

Soon it was time to hit the Vatican Museums. This is one of my favorite museums...but, man, was it CROWDED! We again had a great guide, but you couldn't really stop to look at anything without being pushed and shuttled through. And it was rather warm. Simona, our guide, said the crowds weren't too bad and that it just gets more crowded (and hot) as the season goes on. Yikes. The Sistine Chapel was probably the least crowded, but only because they held a few groups at the door until others left.

The final night in Rome wouldn't be complete without a drink, so we headed to our favorite: Pepy's Bar in Piazza Barberini. It happened to be happy hour, which meant a drink and food from a huge buffet for 8E. Food was really good, too! A few cosmos, manhattans, and brachettos later, we thought it would be nice to watch the sunset from the Spanish Steps. Unfortunately, the rain clouds were covering the sky, blocking and view we may have.

Oh well!

We're now on our way to Florence, and I'm happy to be leaving Rome. It's just far too crowded for me (though I will miss the pizza). Can't wait for some (more) gelato!

Roma

Sunday was a crazy one here in Rome. The beatification of JPII meant an insane amount of people pouring in here.

I decided to go to Villa Borghese...originally, I wanted to go to the gallery, but never made a reservation. It turned out fine, as the park is so nice and huge. It was a hot day in Rome, but the trees provided so much shade that it felt perfect. Lots of families riding bikes & taking the kids to the carousal. The picture is the view from Piazza Napolean at the Villa, looking over the side of St. Peter's. I then walked down to the Piazza Popolo, and headed down Corso for some window shopping.

Mom & Tony had decided to go to the Vatican, then tried to hit the Colesseum/Forum, but it was all closed. We met up for lunch, and took mom by the Trevi Fountain (which was much to crowded...we returned later that night) and Spanish Steps.

We woke this morning to news of Osama Bin Laden's death. It seems to have replaced the Royal wedding in the news. Weird being so far from home on such an important day.

The Vespa tour was today, and it was pretty awesome. They took us all over Rome, concentrating especially on ancient Rome -- behind the Forums -- and Trastevere. We definitely hit some places we'd never otherwise see, including a few churches and parks with amazing views of Rome. We asked to be dropped off at the pantheon (third time hoping to be the charm there), and this apparently required our drivers to go through the tightest places possible. It was super fun...I definitely want a Vespa for SF!

Roma

I know I'm missing a day in here...It's written on my iPad and I couldn't connect to the Internet before we left Monterosso; I'll post as soon as I can!

After another huge breakfast and a very tasty focaccia purchase, we left the already blazing hot Cinque Terre to head down to (a pretty rainy) Rome. The train took us through Pisa and the Italian countryside...not exactly sure our route, but it was really pretty.

As an aside, I really miss internet access. Not for the email and all that, rather, for the ability to look things up. It's driving me a bit nuts not to know what things are (this should come as no surprise to anyone who knows me).

Anyway, as we arrived to Rome, the skies decided to open just in time for our walk to the hotel. Yay! It's pretty crowded here; today Pope John Paul II will get beatified, so there are lots of travelers.
Once we dumped our bags, it was off to the Vatican. We hopped in a cab (not as crazy as I had thought) and headed on down, zooming past Trajans Market, the monument to Vittore Emmanuele (shout out, Bill E), and down past lots of other old stuff until we reached the Vatican.

It was CROWDED. Too much so for me. It was fascinating to me, all the pomp and decorations, but I couldn't get out of there fast enough. People were already starting to camp out for the mass today. It's going to be a madhouse down there.

We decided to walk back, and headed through the Piazza Navona (and past some statues by a Francesco Mochi...an Italian Mochi?), and past the Pantheon. It was nice to get up and move around!
Then it was back to the hotel then dinner, a rather touristy place but decent (and topped off by free limoncello). We haven't yet had an A+ meal...any suggestions?